Intramuros: The Philippine Walled City

Brief History

Ang Intramuros (Latin: "nagsasanggalang na pader" o "sa loob ng pader") ay ang pinakamatandang distrito at sentro ng kasaysayan sa lungsod ng Maynila, ang kabisera ng Pilipinas. Tinatawag ding "napapaderang lungsod", ito ang orihinal na lungsod ng Maynila at luklukan ng pamahalaan noong ang Pilipinas ay nasasakop pa ng Kastila. Ang tawag sa mga distrito sa labas ng pader ay extramuros, na nangangahulugang "sa labas ng pader".[2][3]

Sinimulan ng pamahalaang kolonyal ng Kastila ang pagtatayo ng pader pangdepensa noong huling mga bahagi ng ika-16 siglo upang protektahan ang lungsod mula sa mga mananakop sa ibayo. Ang 0.67 km2 na nakapader na lungsod ay orihinal na matatagpuan sa baybayin ng Look ng Maynila, timog ng pasukan ng Ilog Pasig. Ang Fort Santiago ang nakatalagang tagabantay ng lungsod, kung saan ang kuta nito ay matatagpuan sa bunganga nig ilog. Dahil sa reklamasyon ng lupa na ginawa noong unang mga bahagi ng ika-20 siglo naatras ang mga pader at kuta nito mula sa baybayin.

Lubusang nawasak ang Intramuros dahil sa pagbobomba sa labanan upang mabawi ang lungsod mula sa puwersang Hapon noong Ikalawang Digmaang Pandaigdig. Sinimulan ang pagtatayong muli ng mga pader noong 1951 kung kailan idineklara ang Intramuros bilang Pambansang Makasaysayang Bantayog, kung saan isinasagawa pa rin ito hanggang sa kasalukuyan ng Administrasyong Intramuros (Intramuros Administration, IA).

Source: https://tl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intramuros

27 Historical Sites Inside The Walled City

1. BALUARTE DE SAN ANDRES

Built in 1603. Designed to protect the old Puerta Real and reinforce the southeastern part of Intramuros. Reconstructed in 1733 with the addition of a bombproof arsenal for gunpowder, a watchtower (gatira) and soldiers’ barracks. Also called Baluarte de San Nicolas or Carranza. Destroyed during British siege of Manila in 1762. Rebuilt and modified after British occupation.

Damaged during Battle of Manila in 1945. Restored in 1987. (Source: Intramuros Administration)

2. RECOLECTOS CHURCH AND CONVENT

Here once stood the Church and Convent of the Augustinian Recollects who arrived in the country in 1606. Dedicated to San Nicolas de Tolentino. Constructed from 1614 to 1619. Destroyed in the 1645 earthquake. Rebuilt and improved in the late 17th century. Looted by British soldiers in 1762. Damaged during 1882 earthquake and a typhoon in 1905. Convent used by the Bureau of Civil Service from 1919 to 1922. Occupied by Japanese soldiers in 1942. Destroyed in 1945. Ruins demolished in 1959. (Source: Intramuros Administration)

3. MANILA HIGH SCHOOL

Here stands the Manila High School First public school in Manila. Opened in 1906. Site of the Parian De San Jose (!783-1860) and Escuela Municipal de Niñas, the first public elementary school for girls in 1889.

Building became the Manila High School in 1906. Renamed Manila South High School in 1921 and Araullo High School in 1930. Destroyed during the Battle of Manila in 1945. School’s old name revived in 1958. New school building created on the original site in 1967. (Source: Intramuros Administration)

4. BALUARTE DE DILAO

Built in 1952 as part of the original fortifications. Also known as San Lorenzo, Sa Francisco, San, Francisco, de Dilao or simply Dilao. Named after the Japanese suburb it faced across the city. Enlarged in 1662 following threats of invasion by Chinese pirates. Damaged after the British attack on Manila in 1762. Repaired and strengthened in 1773. Damaged during the Battle of Manila in 1945. Restored in 1984. (Source: Intramuros Administration)

5. SAN FRANCISCO CHURCH AND CONVENT

Here once stood the San Francisco Church and Convent. Built by the Franciscans who arrived in the Philippines in 1578. First church and convent dedicated to Our Lady of Angels (Nuestra Señora de los Angeles). Destroyed in 1583. A new stone edifice with a small hospital was built in 1602. Badly damaged in 1645 earthquake. Remained in ruins until third church was constructed in 1738. Damaged in 1863 earthquake. Destroyed in 1945. (Source: Intramuros Administration)

6. CHAPEL OF THE FRANCISCAN VENERABLE THIRD ORDER

Here once stood the Chapel of the Franciscan Venerable Third Order.Housed the Congregation of the Third Orde of Saint Francis established in 1611 by Fr. Jose de Santa Maria, O.F.M. Chapel built in 1618. Stone edifice built in 1678. Renovated from 1723 to 1763. Sustained heavy damage in the 1863 and 1880 earthquakes. Rebuilt with twin towers which was also a feature of the church of its mother order. Destroyed in 1945 during the Batttle of Manila. (Source: Intramuros Administration)

7. HOSPITAL DE SAN JUAN DE DIOS

Here once stood the Hospital de San Juan de Dios. First known as the Hospitalito de Santa Ana. Built in 1578 by Franciscan laybrother, Juan Clemente. Managed by the Hermandad de la Santa Misericordia with spiritual administration handled by Franciscan Order from 1596 to 1656. Became known as Hospital de la Misericordia del Padres Franciscanos.

Supervised by Brothers of San Juan de Dios from 1656 to 1865. Became popularly known by present time. Administered by the Daughters of Charity in 1868. Placed under private hospital in the Pihilippines. Used as treatment center for Japanese soldiers in WorldWa II. Destroyed in 1945 during the Battle in Manila. Moved to Pasay City in 1951. In 1952, Dr. Jose P. Laurel founded the Lyceum of the Philippines on this site. (Source: Intramuros Administration)

8. PUERTA DEL PARIAN AND REVELLIN DEL PARIAN

Named after the Parian Arroceros across the city where Chinese merchants lived. Built in 1593. One of the earliest entrances to Intramuros. Became official entrance of the Governor-General in 1764, after destruction of Puerta Real during the British invasion.

Ravelin, built in 1603 following Chinese uprising. Used as defense line between the curtain walls of Baluarte de San Andres and Parian Gate. Vaulted chambers built in 1739 to house soldiers and military supplies. Entire defense work completed 1782.

Gate and revelin severely damaged in 1945. Restoration begun in 1967 and completed in 1982. (Source: Intramuros Administration)

9. BALUARTE DE SAN GABRIEL

Built in 1593, this was the Walled City’s most important defense in the north that protected the riverside. Rampart cannons overlooked the Parian in Binondo.

Site of the first Parian in Manila anf former site of the Hospital de San Gabriel. Hospital founded in 1587 by the Dominican fathers dor Chinese populace. Destroyed by fire in 1597. Rebuilding stopped by city government for security reasons. Moved to Binondo. Closed in 1774.

Baluarte de San Gabriel underwent renovations in the 18th century. Destroyed in 1945 during the Battle in Manila. Restored in 1989. (Source: Intramuros Administration)

10. BEATERIO-COLEGIO DE SANTA CATALINA

Here once stood the Beaterio-Colegio de San Catalina. Order founded in 1633 by Mother Francisca del Espiritu Santo. Known as Dominican Sisters of the Tertiary Order. Order recognized by King in 1696. Authorized to offer teaching-training course in 1863 and confer academic degrees of Maestra Normal in 1889.

New building constructed in 1939. Destroyed in 1941. Moved to Legarda Street in Sampaloc in 1942. School in Sampaloc built in 1951. Convent moved to Quezon City in 1962. (Source: Intramuros Administration)

11. COLEGIO DE SAN JUAN DE LETRAN

Here stands the Colegio de San Juan de Letran. School established from two institutions: Colegio de los Niños Heurfanos de San Juan de Letran (1620) founded by Juan Alonso Jeronimo Guerrero and Colegio de Heurfanos de San Pedroy San Pablo (1632) founded by Dominican lay brother Diego de Santa Maria. Guerrero’s school granted royal patronage in 1623.

Merged in 1640 as exclusive school for boys under the name Colegio de San Juan de Letran. Permanently settled in this site in 1668. Declared ecclesiastical college in 1690 and Colegio de Primera Clase en Filipinas in 1865. Three-story building built in 1937. Damaged in 1941 and 1945. Reopened in 1946. One of two original schools remaining in Intramuros today. (Source: Intramuros Administration)

12. PLAZA SANTO TOMAS

Lot originally purchased by the Dominican Order in 1627 for their cemetery and garden. Bought by city government in 1861 as a public plaza. Given to the University of Santo Tomas in 1879. Bronze statue of U.S.T. founder Archbishop Miguel de Benavides erected in 1891.

Monument transferred to present campus along España Street after the war. Replica installed in 2002. (Source: Intramuros Administration)

13. SANTO DOMINGO CHURCH AND CONVENT

Here once stood the Santo Domingo Church and Convent of the Dominican Order. First built in 1588. Collapsed in 1589 due to poor foundations. Rebuilt in stone in 1592. Burned in 1603. Constructed for the third time but destroyed in 1645 earthquake. Fourth church completed in 1692. Destroyed in 1863 earthquake. Fifth church inaugurated in 1868. Desugned by first Filipino architect Felix Roxas Sr. I neo-Gothic design. Destroyed in 1941.

Most Holy Rosary (Nuestra Señora del Santisimo Rosario) carved in 1593 as a gift of Gov.Gen. Luis Dasmariñas. Also known as Virgin of La Naval in honor of her divine intervention in the Spanish victory against the Dutch navy. Saved from World War II, the statue was re-enshrined in 1954 at the blessing of the chruch in Quezon City. (Source: Intramuros Administration)

14. PLAZA ESPAñA

First known as Plaza Aduana. Renamed Plaza de los Martires de la Integridad de la Patria in 1897. Instituted by spanish governemnt in 1896 to honor Spanish soldiers killed during Philippine Revolution. Present name given in 1902 by the U.S. government. Monument of King Philip II of Spain was erected in 1998. (Source: Intramuros Administration)

15. ADUANA

Here stands te Aduana (Customs House). Designed by Tomas Cortes and built from 1823 to 1829. Damaged in the 1863 earthquake. Demolished in 1872.

New building erected from 1874 to 1876. Housed the Customs offices, the Intendencia General de Hacienda (Central Administration), the Treasury as well as the new Casa de Moneda (Mint).

Building left to the Intendencia and the Treasury after Customs moved to Port Area. Damaged by Japanese bombs in 1941 and American artillery in 1945. Became offices of the Central Bank of the Philippines, the National Treasury and the Commission on Election successively. Destroyed by fire in 1979. Partly restored by the National Archives in 1998. (Source: Intramuros Administration)

16. UNIVERSITY OF SANTO TOMAS

Here once stood the University of Santo Tomas, the oldest university in Asia. Founded in 1611. First called Colegio Seminario de Santo Tomas de Nuestra Señora del Rosario. Authorized to grant academic degreed in 1624. Raised to the rank of University in 1645. Given royal patronage in 1680. Granted the title Royal in 1785 and Pontifical in 1902. Campus moved to Sampaloc, Manila in 1927. Building destroyed in 1945 Battle of Manila. Granted the title of the Catholic University of the Philippines by Pope Leo XII in 1947. (Source: Intramuros Administration)

17. PUERTA DE ISABEL II

Opened in 1861. The last gate to be built in Intramuros. Part of route of tranvia (streetcar) in the 19th century. Damaged during Battle of Manila 1945. Restored in 1966.

Statue of Queen Isabel II originally unveiled at Plaza Arroceros. Removed and stored in 1868. Placed in front of Malate Chruch from 1896 until 1970. Moved to present site in 1975.

Chambers built in 1837 extending from Baluarte de Santo Domingo to Baluarte de San Gabriel. Used as military medical quarters and storehouse. Sections demolished by American engineers in 1903. Damaged during Battle of Manila in 1945, only 14 chambers remain intact. (Source: Intramuros Administration)

18. AYUNTAMIENTO (CASAS CONSISTORIALES)

Here once stood the Ayuntamiento (Casas Consistoriales). Seat of City Council of Manila. First structure built from 1599 to 1607. Severely damaged in the earthquakes of 1645 and 1658. Demolished to make way for new building.

Second building constructed in 1735. Destroyed in 1863 eathquake. Reconstruction by military engineer Eduardo Lopez Navarro begun in 1879 and completed in1884.

Became headquarters of the 18th U.S. Army Corps in 1901. Site of Sessions of the First Philippine Assembly in 1907 and Philippine Legislation in 1935. Housed the offices of the Bureau of Justice and Supreme Court during the American aand Commonwealth period. Destroyed in the Batlle of Manila in 1945. Future site of the Bureau of the Treasury office. (Source: Intramuros Administration)

19. PLAZUELA DE SANTA ISABEL

Made part of Santa Isabel College which lacked an open space characteristics of Spanish buildings. Empty lot called Sampalucan along Calle Anda joined to enlarge plazuela in the 18th century.

Restored in 1983. Monument dedicated to the non-combatant victims of the last war erected in 1995 by Memorable Manila 1945. (Source: Intramuros Administration)

20. SAN IGNACIO CHRUCH

Here once stood the second San Ignacio Chruch and the Casa Mision of the Jesuit Order. Built from 1878 to 1889. Designed by first Filipino artchitect Felix Roxas, Sr. Neo-classical in style with two towers. Constructed under the direction of Jesuit priest Francisco Riera. Interior famous for woofwork by reowned Filipino sculptor Isabelo Tampingco and students. Destroyed during the Battle of Manila in 1945. Converted into an office and warehouse after World War II. Future site of the Museo de Intramuros to house the ecclessiastical collection of IA. (Source: Intramuros Administration)

21. ATENEO DE MANILA

Here once stood the Ateneo de Manila. Founded in 1817 as Escuela Pia de Manila. Administered by government in 1831 and renamed Escuela Municipal de Manila. Turned over to the Jesuits in 1859. Renamed Ateneo Municiapl de Manila in 1865. Exclusive ownership given to Jesuits in 1901. Name shortened to Ateneo de Manila. Gutted by fire in 1932. Grade School rebuilt in Intramuros while rest of the campus moved to Ermita, Manila. Destroyed during World War II. Moved to Loyola Heights, Quezon City in 1952. (Source: Intramuros Administration)

22. THE SEAFRONT COMPLEX

Baluartillo de San Jose, Reducto de San Pedro, Barluartillo de San Eugenio, Baluarte Plano Luneta de Santa Isabel, Baluartillo de San Juan.

Built in 1592, the seafront (frente de la marina) section started out as a weak defense line. Fortified in the 17th century following threats of invasion from Ducth and Chinese pirates.

General plan prepared by Miguel Antonio Gomez and revised by Juan Martin Cermeño. Built from 1779 to 1786 under the direction of Tomas Sanz.

During the American period, the Baluartillo de San Jose was the headquarters of then U.S. Military Adviser to the Philippines General Douglas MacArthur. This site became more popularly known as No. 1 Victoria Street.

Damaged during the Battle of Manila in 1945. Restored from 1980 to 1987. (Source: Intramuros Administration)

23. PUERTA DE SANTA LUCIA

Built in 1603, this was one of the original entrances to the Walled City. Underwent improvements in the late 18th century. Favored route to Malecon Drive outside walls.

Destroyed during Battle of Manila in 1945. Side chambers restored in 1968 and gate in 1982. (Source: Intramuros Administration)

24. CUARTEL DE SANTA LUCIA (PC BARRACKS)

Here once stood the Cuartel de Santa Lucia. Formerly housed the Artilleria de la Montaña, a Spanish artillery regiment and office of the Guardia Civil Veterana. Became first headquarters of the Philippine Constabulary in 1901 and was called the PC BARRACKS.

Officers’ school was opened in 1904. Moved to Baguio in 1908 to become the Philippine Military Academy (PMA). Destroyed in 1945. Site occupied by a governement office before it was abandoned. Façade reconstructed in 1998 by the Intramuros Adminitration. (Source: Intramuros Administration)

25. BEATERIO DE LA COMPAÑIA DE JESUS

Here once stood the motherhouse of the Beaterio de la Compañia de Jesus, first Filipino congregation of religious women. Founded in 1684 by Mother Ignacia del Espiritu Santo, a Chinese mestiza from Binondo. Order first housed in the Casa de Recogidas (Retreat House) near the Jesuit Compound. Rules of the order approved by Archbishop of Manila in 1732. Granted royal protection by 1755. Destroyed in 1945. Order moved to Sampaloc, Manila. Granted pontifical status in 1948. Became known as Congregation de Religiosas de la Virgen Maria (Religious of the Virgin Mary) or R.V.M. Sisters. Moved to Quezon City in 1950.

Reconstructed in 2003 as the Bagumbayan Light and Sound Museum that showcases Philippine history in a nutshell focusing on Jose Rizal’s and martyrdom. (Source: Intramuros Administration)

26. PUERTA REAL AND REVELLIN DE REAL DE BAGUMBAYAN

Built in 1663. Used exclusively by the Governor-General for state occasions. Original gate at right side of the Baluarte de San Andres and faced the village of Bagumbayan. Destroyed duing the British invasion in 1762.

Old gate walled in and chambers converted into powder magazines. Present Puerta Real and ravelin constructed in 1780.

Ravelin converted into Manila Aquarium during the American period. Used as prison cells and barracks during Japanese occupation.

Damaged in the Battle of Manila in 1945. Restored in 1969 and additional work made in 1989. Ravelin bridge excavated and and restored in 1982. The Manila Aquarium was revived after the war and maintained until it closed in 1983. Re-opened in 1998 with the name Aquario de Manila. (Source: Intramuros Administration)

27. THE JESUIT COMPOUND

This block was occupied by the Jesuits upon their arrival in 1581 until their expulsion in 1768. The Church of Santa Ana (1601), and the first church and convent of San Ignacio (1626) were built on this site.

Built in 1950 and opened in 1596, Santa Ana was the first stone church in the Philippines. Destroyed in an earthquake. Another chruch and convent constructed in 1626 in honor of St. Ignatius of Loyola in 1626.

The Colegio Maximo de San Ignacio was continually repaired and renovated following the 1645 earthquake until the Jesuit expulsion in 1768. Became the site of Real Seminario Conciliar de San Carlos from 1784 until 1880. Property returned to government when seminary moved out.

The Colegio de San Jose was granted royal patronage in 1722. Placed under secular adminitration after the Jesuit expulsion. Converted into a seminar and liberal arts college. Merged with the faculty of medicine and pharmacy of the University of Santo Tomas in 1875. Returned to the Jesuits in 1911.

Abandoned buildings used as soldiers’ barracks. Known as Cuartel del Rey and later, Cuartel de España. It was here that the trial of Dr. Jose Rizal for sedition was held in 1896.

Occupied by the 31st Infantry of the U.S. Army during the American occupation. Part of the barracks was razed in 1900 and gymnasium built on it. Destroyed during World War II. Site occupied by the Pamantasan ng Lungsod ng Maynila in the 1950s. (Source: Intramuros Administration)

Other Historical Figures Inside The Walled City, Intramuros

1. GALERIA DE LOS PRESIDENTES DE LA REPUBLICA PILIPINA

2. THE MANILA-ACAPULCO GALLEON CARVING

In the span of 250 years, from 1565 to 1815, the Manila-Acapulco Galleon maintained the longest-running transpacific trade route in history. It initiated not only trade between Mexico and the Philippines, but it also linked the Ameicas with Asia as well as the Philippines with Spain. Over 300 voyages were undertaken by these galleons which were constructed in both Mexico and the Philippines.

The Manila-Acapulco Galleon symbolizes the close cultural links between the Philippines and Mexico. – Manila, 1998. Centennial Year. (Source: Intramuros Administration)

3. MEMORIAL BY PETER DE GUZMAN